The Fall Calendar. Kitchen time for me. My synagogue decided to sponsor a dinner the evening before Rosh Hashanah. It's a good thing for them to do. They get people to come and stay for an evening service whose attendance has dwindled. My experience with congregational meals usually has me heading home regretting that I subscribed. Many reasons, most traceable to a Dominant Influencer culture that grates on me. Also exclusion from the kitchen, one of my favorite places to be as a Food Committee gave way to Sisterhood, with its Dominant Influencer. Something I revel in at home, designing the menus, inviting dinner guests, executing the creation of an elegant meal using home kitchen resources. My favorite place to be, even before I get to the dining table. Going to a synagogue dinner registers as a form of deprivation.
Three key meals, multiple secondary ones as the Holy Days play out. RH, Shabbos Sukkot, and since traveling to an event with my new grandson, I can assemble a Shabbos dinner from their nearby Aldi for the Shabbos before YK.
I've made the menu grid for RH and Sukkot. As I did this, the RH structure with my family traditions popped out at me from the grid. I make a round challah, two if Shabbos. I've known how to make a round spiral for many years, but this past year I learned how to make a four-strand interior braid with the overall shape remaining round. We have apples and honey. The Sisterhood, those ladies who exclude me from the congregational kitchen irrespective of my skill and interests, sell honey as a fundraiser. Expensive, but better honey than the stuff that supports my honey cake. That goes with apples. I've gotten away from gefilte fish. We still try to get to services on time. Too many dinner courses make that difficult. Instead, I make a chicken soup with discounted chicken parts that can be harvested for other uses. Add carrots, an onion, maybe a turnip, a stalk or two of celery and commercial kosher chicken broth, some peppercorns, maybe a bay leaf. Pastina or orzo for serving. My wife makes a special rice kugel, more sweet than savory. I usually make chicken as the main course. Some forms cook easily, others with more elegance. You can never go wrong with boneless, skinless chicken breasts, that blank canvas of an entree that can be seasoned, seared, and baked, poached with herbs, made in an Insta-Pot, or prepared in a variety of sauces. Carrots are the preferred vegetable, having to do with a play on words in their Yiddish form. I've made glazed carrots, but sometimes plain boiled has advantages. Dessert is always Honey Cake. It has a basic recipe with endless variants. Since we need to head to services, I do not serve alcohol other than a swallow of Concord Grape Wine with kiddush. Seltzer or herb tea does the job.
Sukkot meals get eaten in our sukkah as much as weather permits. We try to have guests shabbos, usually people who do not have their own sukkahs. We also usually get invited somewhere during the holiday, but I reserve Shabbos for serving as host. Here the menu gets more creative. Two braided Challot, one for the guest to take home. I've learned to make loaf gefilte fish. It is poached in seasoned water while still frozen, then cooled and served as slices with horseradish. Soup appears in the menu, often Middle Eastern harira, sometimes chicken. Salad of some type, always with a dressing that I made myself. The main course has fewer restrictions. Chicken Cacciatore goes well. So does a half-turkey breast or a whole roasted chicken. Maybe Bastilla, an elegant chicken pie assembled with a phyllo crust. Roast meat gets a kugel of some type. Vegetable on sale. Dessert is usually a pareve cake. Apple, nut torte, baklava. And wine. Serving in a cramped sukkah with small square table requires its own planning.
While many American Jews center their religious life around the Holy Days, sometimes the only opportunity to leverage reluctant worshipers to fork over hefty annual dues that keep their congregations functional the rest of the year, the luster for me had long since worn off. In college, I reconnected with friends I'd not seen that summer. Services usually needed some juggling with school work. Each year had a twist or two. Adult suburbia has became excessively programmed. Large crowds. People of entitlement, either to the same aliyah they've had forever, choirs that mean more to the singers than the listeners, gatekeepers at the door, an influx before Yizkor with a mass exit on completion, an increasingly politicized Bond Appeal. A programmed Event. I come as a spectator for the most part. It is those hours of sifting through online menus, reading possibilities from my cookbooks, extending guest invitations, building a home sukkah from a kit, and challenging my skill in the kitchen that makes the season special. It's worth my best effort.